Aquarium Algae Removal Tablets — 150 Tablets

A dosed, no-mess tablet treatment for green water and glass algae in freshwater tanks — used carefully, as part of a proper fix.

When a tank goes pea-soup green, or the glass keeps filming over faster than you can scrape it, a chemical algae treatment can knock the bloom back and buy you time. These dissolvable tablets are dosed by water volume — roughly three tablets per 50 litres — so there are no measuring caps or liquid spills, and 150 tablets in a small bottle lasts a long while across small and medium freshwater tanks. They're aimed at free-floating green water algae and the film that builds on tank walls.

A tablet treatment is a tool for knocking down a bloom, not a cure for what caused it. Algae blooms come from a light-and-nutrient imbalance, and unless you fix that, the bloom comes back after the treatment wears off. Used with that understanding — and with the precautions below — it's a reasonable part of an algae plan. Please read the cautions before you dose; with algae treatments, the "how" matters more than the product.

What This Is Good For

• Dosing without mess — tablets take the guesswork and spillage out of treatment compared with measuring a liquid algaecide.
• Aimed at green water — free-floating algae blooms are hard to remove mechanically, which is where a water-column treatment has a genuine role.
• Simple volume maths — work out litres (L × W × H in cm ÷ 1000) and dose to that figure, so you're not guessing at tank size.
• 150 tablets per bottle — a long-lasting supply for occasional treatment of small and medium freshwater tanks.
• No equipment changes — drop into the tank or the filter box with the filtration running; nothing to install or modify.
• Freshwater aquariums — the manufacturer specifies freshwater use only.

⚠️ The most important warning: killing a big bloom fast can suffocate your fish. When a large volume of algae dies at once it decays, which strips oxygen out of the water and releases ammonia. This — not the treatment itself — is what kills fish after an algaecide is used. Always dose conservatively, run extra aeration (an air stone or increased surface agitation) during and after treatment, and do a water change once the algae dies off. For a heavy green-water bloom, treat in stages rather than trying to clear it all in one hit.

⚠️ The active ingredient isn't disclosed — treat shrimp, snails, and other invertebrates as at risk. The supplier's information doesn't state what the tablets actually contain. Many aquarium algae treatments are copper-based, and copper is lethal to shrimp, snails, and other invertebrates even at low doses. Because we can't verify the formulation, we won't tell you it's invertebrate-safe. If you keep shrimp, snails, or other inverts, don't use this in that tank unless you have confirmed the ingredient list with the manufacturer. The same caution applies to a valuable planted scape — see below.

⚠️ Planted tanks: be cautious, and test small. Algae are plants. Treatments that kill algae frequently stress or damage higher plants too, and delicate species (mosses, carpeting plants, fine stem plants) tend to suffer first. The manufacturer states the formula is intended for use alongside live plants, but without an ingredient disclosure that isn't something we can confirm. If you decide to use it in a planted tank, start with less than the stated dose and watch your plants for several days before dosing again.

💡 Pro tip: fix the cause or the bloom just comes back. Green water and persistent glass algae are almost always a light-and-nutrient imbalance. Cut your photoperiod back to 6–7 hours, move the tank out of direct sunlight, don't overfeed, and keep up regular water changes. For green water specifically, a UV steriliser or a 3–4 day complete blackout (tank fully covered, lights off) clears blooms without adding anything to the water — both are gentler and more permanent than repeat chemical dosing.

💡 Pro tip: never dose on top of a dose. The supplier's own instructions give conflicting intervals (see the dosage note below). Whatever schedule you settle on, wait the full interval, run a water change between treatments, and never "top up" because it isn't working yet — overdosing an algaecide is how tanks crash.

Dosage Guide

Working out your volume: length × width × height in cm ÷ 1000 = litres. A 120 × 50 × 50 cm tank is 240 L. Subtract a little for substrate and hardscape.

⚠️ On frequency — the supplier's instructions conflict. The packaging says "3 tablets per 50 litres weekly" in one line and "once every 10–15 days" in the next, while the product description says to repeat after 3–5 days if algae persists. These are three different schedules. Until the manufacturer confirms which is correct, use the most conservative one: the longest interval (10–15 days), at or below the stated dose. With algae treatments, under-dosing costs you time; over-dosing can cost you the tank.

Specifications

What's in the Box

• 1 × bottle of 150 algae control tablets

No dosing scoop or measuring aid is included — dosing is by tablet count against your calculated water volume.

Pairs Well With

• An air stone/air pump — extra aeration during and after treatment is the single best safeguard against the oxygen drop from dying algae.
• Water test kit (ammonia & nitrite) — lets you catch the ammonia spike that follows a big algae die-off before it harms your fish.
• Gravel vacuum/siphon — for the water change that should follow any treatment, removing decaying algae from the system.
• A timer for your lights — cutting the photoperiod to 6–7 hours addresses the actual cause of most algae blooms.

Your Top 5 Questions — Answered

1. Is it safe for shrimp and snails?

A. We can't confirm that, so treat the answer as no. The manufacturer's materials don't disclose the active ingredient, and many aquarium algae treatments are copper-based — copper is lethal to shrimp, snails, and other invertebrates at very low concentrations. Until the formulation is confirmed, don't use this in a tank containing invertebrates you care about.

2. Will it hurt my live plants?

A. Possibly, and we'd urge caution. Algae are plants, so treatments that kill algae often stress higher plants as well — mosses, carpets, and fine-leaved stems usually show it first. The manufacturer states it's intended for use with live plants, but without an ingredient list that can't be verified. If you use it in a planted tank, dose below the stated amount first and watch your plants for several days.

3. How often should I dose it?

A. The supplier's own instructions disagree — one line says weekly, another says every 10–15 days, and the description says repeat after 3–5 days if algae persists. Until that's clarified, go with the longest interval (10–15 days) at or below the stated dose, with a water change between treatments. Never add more because it hasn't worked yet; overdosing an algaecide is a common way to crash a tank.

4. My tank is bright green — can I clear it all at once?

A. Please don't try. When a heavy bloom dies off all at once, the decaying algae consumes oxygen and releases ammonia, and that's what kills fish after an algae treatment. Treat in stages, run an air stone for extra aeration through the process, test for ammonia, and do a water change once the algae dies back. Patience here genuinely protects your livestock.

5. Will the algae come back?

A. Unless you change what caused it, yes. Green water and stubborn glass algae come from too much light and too many nutrients — long photoperiods, direct sunlight on the tank, overfeeding, or skipped water changes. A treatment buys you a clear tank for a while; shortening your light period, shading the tank, feeding less, and keeping to a water change schedule is what keeps it clear. For green water, a UV steriliser or a 3–4 day blackout clears blooms without adding anything to the water.

Ships within 20–25 business days.